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Blake Stitch Shoes | Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt | Guide 2024

Blake stitch dress shoes are an essential part of any gentleman's wardrobe. They are known for their sleek appearance and comfort, making them perfect for any formal occasion or professional...

Blake stitch dress shoes are an essential part of any gentleman's wardrobe. They are known for their sleek appearance and comfort, making them perfect for any formal occasion or professional setting. In this article, we will discuss everything you need to know about blake stitch dress shoes. 

What are we going to learn in this article?

  1. What is blake stitching

  2. Blake Stitch vs Goodyear welt

  3. Blake Stitch vs Norwegian Welt

  4. Blake Stitch vs Blake Rapid

  5. Best Blake Stitch Shoe Brands

  6. Types & Styles of Blake Shoes & Boots

  7. Resoling Blake Stitched Shoes & Costs

What does Blake Stitching mean?

The Blake stitch method is named after Lyman Reed Blake, an American inventor who patented the technique in 1856. Blake stitch construction differs from other shoe construction methods, such as Goodyear welt and cementing, which involve multiple layers of materials and stitching.

What is Blake Stitching?

First, let's start with the basics. Blake stitch is a type of construction used in dress shoes, which involves stitching the upper of the shoe directly to the sole. This results in a lightweight and flexible shoe, with a slim profile and minimal sole thickness. Unlike other shoe constructions such as Goodyear welt, Blake stitch shoes have a less prominent welt and a more streamlined appearance.

Blake Shoes Advantages 

One of the key advantages of blake stitch shoes is their comfort. The direct stitching of the upper to the sole means that there are fewer layers of material between your foot and the ground. This allows for greater flexibility and natural movement of the foot, resulting in a more comfortable wearing experience. Additionally, the lack of a thick sole means that blake stitch shoes are typically lighter than other types of dress shoes.

Another advantage of blake stitch shoes is their versatility. They are a popular choice for both formal and casual occasions, as they can be dressed up or down depending on the outfit. Additionally, Blake stitch shoes have a more streamlined appearance and a less prominent welt than shoes made with other construction methods.

Blake stitch shoes are often more affordable than shoes made with other construction methods, such as Goodyear welt. This makes them a great option for those looking for a high-quality dress shoe without breaking the bank.

Blake stitch shoes come in a variety of styles and colors, from classic black or brown leather to more modern options like suede or patent leather. They can be paired with a suit for a formal event, or with jeans and a blazer for a more casual look.

Check Ace Marks Blake Construction Italian Shoes 

 

italian oxford dress shoe

Italian Black Oxford Shoe

$324

italian monkstrap dress shoe

Italian Brandy Antique Monkstrap

$324

 

Blake Stitching Vs Goodyear Welted 

Blake stitching and Goodyear welted are two common construction methods used in dress shoes, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

goodyear welted vs blake stitch

Blake Stitching:

  • Uses a single line of stitching to attach the upper directly to the sole.
  • Creates a sleek and streamlined appearance with a less prominent welt.
  • Offers greater flexibility and a lightweight feel, making the shoes more comfortable.
  • Shoes made with this method may not be as durable as those made with other construction methods, as the sole is not as thick and may wear down faster.
  • Repairing or resoling blake stitch shoes can be more difficult and expensive, as the sole and upper are stitched together and must be separated before repair.

Goodyear Welted:

  • Uses a welt (a strip of leather) to attach the upper to the sole, which is then stitched to the welt.
  • Creates a more durable and sturdy shoe, with a thicker and more substantial sole.
  • Offers greater water resistance, as the welt creates a barrier between the upper and the sole.
  • Allows for easier and more affordable repair and resoling, as the sole and upper can be easily separated.
  • The welt and thicker sole can make the shoe heavier and less flexible than those made with other construction methods.

Both Blake stitching and Goodyear welted have their place in the world of dress shoes, and the choice ultimately depends on personal preference and intended use. Blake stitch shoes are a popular choice for their sleek appearance and comfort, while Goodyear welted shoes are prized for their durability and easy repairability.

Features: Blake Stitching vs Goodyear welted 

Feature

Blake Stitching

Goodyear Welted

Construction Method

Direct stitching of the upper to the sole

Upper attached to welt, which is then stitched to sole

Appearance

Streamlined with a less prominent welt

Thicker sole and more visible welt

Comfort

Lightweight and flexible for greater comfort. Easier Breaking-in.

Heavier and less flexible. Difficult breaking-in procces.

Durability

May not be as durable as other construction methods, but cheaper and depending on leather quality.

Offers greater durability and resistance to water

Repairability

Resolable, but more difficult resoling work. 

 

Easier and more affordable to repair or resole.




It's worth noting that while this table provides a general overview of the differences between these two construction methods, the specifics can vary depending on the quality of materials and construction used in each shoe.

Blake Stitching vs Norwegian Welt Construction

Blake stitch and Norwegian welt are two different construction methods used in dress shoes, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Blake Stitch:

  • Uses a single line of stitching to attach the upper directly to the sole.
  • Creates a sleek and streamlined appearance with a less prominent welt.
  • Offers greater flexibility and a lightweight feel, making the shoes more comfortable.
  • Shoes made with this method may not be as durable as those made with other construction methods, as the sole is not as thick and may wear down faster.
  • Repairing or resoling blake stitch shoes can be a little bit difficult than norwegian wetled shoes, as the sole and upper are stitched together and must be separated before repair.

Norwegian Welt:

  • Uses a double-stitching technique to attach the upper to a strip of leather, which is then attached to the sole with another row of stitching.
  • Creates a durable and sturdy shoe, with a thicker and more substantial sole.
  • Offers greater water resistance, as the welt creates a barrier between the upper and the sole.
  • Provides a unique and attractive appearance, with a visible seam on the outside of the shoe.
  • The welt and thicker sole can make the shoe heavier and less flexible than those made with other construction methods.

Blake Stitching vs Blake Rapid 

Blake stitch and Blake Rapid are two similar construction methods used in dress shoes, but with some differences in their construction and characteristics.


Feature

Blake Stitching

Blake Rapid

Construction Method

Direct stitching of the upper to the sole

Single stitching of the upper to a layer between upper and sole, then to sole

Appearance

Streamlined with a less prominent welt

Streamlined with a more prominent welt

Comfort

Lightweight and flexible for greater comfort

Lightweight and flexible for greater comfort

Durability

May not be as durable as other construction methods, but usually cheaper and not less quality.

Offers greater durability and support.

Repairability

Can be resoled, but more difficult work for the cobbler.

Easier and less expensive to repair or resole


It's important to note that this table provides a general comparison between these two construction methods, and the specifics of each shoe can vary depending on the quality of materials and construction used. Ultimately, the choice between Blake stitch and Blake Rapid depends on personal preference and the intended use of the shoe. Blake stitch shoes are a popular choice for their sleek appearance and comfort, while Blake Rapid shoes are known for their added durability and easier repair process. 

Blake Stitched Shoes

  1. Sleek Appearance: Blake stitch construction creates a streamlined and elegant appearance that many people find appealing in dress shoes. The lack of a bulky welt makes the shoes look more refined and less casual than shoes with more prominent welts.
  2. Comfortable: The direct attachment of the upper to the sole in Blake stitch construction creates a more flexible and lightweight shoe, providing greater comfort and ease of movement. This makes them an excellent choice for people who value comfort in their dress shoes.
  3. Affordable: Blake stitch shoes tend to be less expensive than those made with other construction methods, such as Goodyear welt. This makes them a great option for those looking for a high-quality dress shoe without breaking the bank.
  4. Suitable for various occasions: Blake stitch dress shoes can be worn in various settings, from formal events to more casual occasions. They are versatile and can easily transition from a day at the office to a night out.
  5. Quality: While Blake stitch shoes may not be as durable as those made with other construction methods, they are still high-quality shoes that can last for many years with proper care and maintenance. Many reputable shoe manufacturers offer Blake stitch shoes made from high-quality materials, ensuring a quality product.

Overall, Blake stitch dress shoes are a great option for those looking for a comfortable, versatile, and affordable dress shoe that also looks sleek and stylish.

Can Blake Stitch be resoled? 

Yes, Blake stitched shoes can be resoled. In Blake stitch construction, the upper is directly stitched to the sole, so the sole and upper must be separated before a new sole can be attached. This can make the process more time-consuming. However, experienced cobblers can still successfully resole Blake stitched shoes with the proper tools and techniques.

It's important to note that the ability to resole Blake stitched shoes can also depend on the quality of the original construction and the thickness of the sole. If the shoe was poorly constructed or the sole is too thin, it may not be possible to resole the shoe without causing damage to the upper.

Overall, while Blake stitched shoes can be resoled, it's important to take care of them and choose a reputable cobbler for any repair or resoling needs to ensure the longevity of the shoe.

Blake Stich Resole Cost

The cost of resoling a Blake stitched shoe can vary depending on several factors, such as the location of the cobbler, the materials used for the resole, and the condition of the shoe. On average, the cost can range from $50 to $150, but it can be higher if the upper needs repair or if the shoe requires additional work beyond just the resole.

Conclusion: Blake or Goodyear welt

When it comes to Blake stitch vs. Goodyear welt construction, both methods have their advantages and disadvantages. Blake stitch shoes are often more affordable, sleeker, and more comfortable. Goodyear welted shoes are known for their durability, support, and ease of repair, but their cost is considerably higher.

Ultimately, the choice between the two depends on personal preference and intended use. If comfort, affordability, and a streamlined appearance are more important, then Blake stitch shoes are an excellent option. However, if durability is your top priority, then Goodyear welted shoes may be the better choice.

 

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